Icelandic Brewery Tour

The entrance to the brewery looks like a beer museum

Iceland, the last non-muslim country to legalize beer, has only had beer since March 1, 1989.  Shocking, right?  Like American prohibition, the movement to ban alcohol began early in the 20th century.  The International Organisation of Good Templars (IOGT), a Swedish-born group devoted to total abstinence, gained political traction in Iceland and swung the vote to prohibit alcohol in the 1908 referendum.

Alcoholic liquors as a beverage are to them an outlaw and an enemy. Good Templars abstain, not only because it is expedient, but because it is right.

—The Good Templars

Two periods in Icelandic history relaxed the laws.  First, in 1921, Spain threatened to stop importing Icelandic fish unless Iceland imported Spanish wine.  Later, in 1935, spirits were legalized.  Some vocal Icelanders were convinced that cheap, delicious beer would become a gateway drink to alcoholism, depravity, and destruction of the moral fabric of Iceland so they didn’t include it.  But vodka’s cool, yeah, drink vodka.  It’s like allowing kids to play with chainsaws but banning scissors.  Still, Icelanders were pretty happy about getting more options and didn’t complain about not getting beer… yet.

Allied forces stationed in Iceland (following the British invasion and occupation), in the 1940’s, pressured Iceland to make them beer.  The brewery I toured, Egill Skallagrímsson brewery, made Polar Beer for export during this time.  As Icelanders traveled, nearly everywhere they went, they found beer.  And it was good.  Meanwhile, in Iceland, some pubs served a legal malt drink, Letto (~2.2%) mixed with hard liquor.  This end-around the law only succeeded in creating the abomination known as bjórlíki.  Authorities rightfully stopped the practice in 1985.

 

The Borg Brugghús (micro brewery) at Egill Skallagrímsson

Finally, in 1989, parliament voted to allow the sale of beer.  As a result, Iceland must now catch up to the rest of the world in beer science–and they learn fast.  How fast?  Well, in 2006, Egils Lite won Gold for American-style Lite beer.  Then in 2011 Egils Gull took Best Standard Lager Beer.  In 2012, Brio won gold in German-style Pilsner (something the Germans still can’t quite figure out).  In addition to the mainstream brews, Icelandic micro brews continue to impress.  Some will get exported, but if you want the best, you need to visit Iceland.

To say Icelanders take pride in their beer would understate the situation.  They honor the heritage, history, and privilege of making and drinking beer.  Their assets include amazing water,  a worldly and educated workforce, and fanatical commitment to quality.

Science happening

So, aside from the delicious beer, I thoroughly enjoyed the tour of the facility and the tongue-in-cheek presentation of “beer school” in the VIP lounge–complete with a PowerPoint presentation, diplomas, trivia contest, and, of course, delicious beer.

Bjórskólinn (Beer School)